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Friday, November 7, 2014

Passage from Tonga to New Zealand.


OCTOBER 19 – 28, 2014
PASSAGE FROM PORT MOURELLE, TONGA TO OPUA, NEW ZEALAND


We awoke in Port Mourelle to a beautiful, calm day. We drank our coffee and reflected on the fact that we were leaving paradise for a notoriously rough passage to New Zealand. Theo and I had been preparing ourselves mentally for it the entire week and we felt as ready as we ever would. We left around 10 o’clock am with our friends Joyce and Bob just ahead of us on the sailing vessel Chara.  Bob called us on the radio and said “It doesn’t get any better than this”! It was a spectacular day for sailing… for a few hours... then the only way I can describe it is that our boat got “hammered.” We did not have our sea legs yet, so the result was that we all got seasick (even poor little Isabel). I was lying on the couch with my eyes closed cursing our decision to do the passage. We were travelling 1,300 nautical miles to New Zealand and I could not begin to deal with having  9 to 10 days of that crazy ocean!

The "Magic Reel" chewed, bent and broken by a 50 pound Mahi...it is officially retired.

Theo talking to Bob during our passage
Thankfully, the next day was calm, and the next, and the next.  Actually, there was hardly any wind at all until the last few days and we motored for half of our trip. The very last day and night we got “hammered” again. We experienced a very confused ocean and huge waves crashed into the cockpit and over our bow, but we never felt in danger. Our boat was built to withstand this type of treatment… Theo, Isabel and I are another matter. It was extremely uncomfortable and we were very tired from alternating night watches for 8 days. Theo tried to sleep, but was not able to on that last stormy evening. When we finally entered the bay, we didn’t even speak to each other. We sat up on the flying bridge (comforting Isabel) in our foul weather gear and just stared at the land around us. It was grey and raining, but the beauty of New Zealand was undisputable. We had completed the passage and we felt exhausted, relieved and rewarded.

Our first glimpse of New Zealand (Scary weather)

Pine Island as seen from Opua Marina
 


Theo proudly raising our New Zealand flag

October 28, 2014
Opua Bay Marina, New Zealand
Quarantine Dock

We were immediately guided to the quarantine dock and had officers on board as soon as we tied up. Theo and I looked a mess, we still had our foul weather gear on and bewildered expressions. Isabel was not happy with the strangers boarding her boat, so she was doing her best angry bark. She was wearing a black fleece with a hoodie, so you can imagine that she got laughed at! Everyone was welcoming and friendly. The whole check in process took about an hour and a half and was painless. They did go through all of our storage on the boat and removed quit a few things from the galley. Our quarantine inspector, Mike, was rummaging around in our stateroom and finally came up and asked “Do you have any more of these”? He was holding up two cans of bear repellent that Theo had stashed away for our protection. This stuff is great... it is a bear pepper spray and can shoot up to 20 feet away. We have no fire arms on board, so that was all we had if someone ever approached Et Voila without being invited. Since we forgot to declare them, Mike seized the cans of bear repellent and said we would not be able to get them back.  He assured us we would not need them in New Zealand anyway… he said “No need for that here Love”!

Isabel trying to look scary in her black hoodie
Next was the discussion about getting Isabel on a flight to Los Angeles. We still had to apply for a permit to travel and then she would have to see a veterinarian to get more paperwork stamped and signed so she could leave. This will take a while!

The final people to come on board were a man and a woman who basically welcomed us to New Zealand and told us about services that were available in the Opua Marina. I was told with a sympathetic smile that there was a spa where I could get my hair and nails done… if I wasn’t so tired, I would have cried with happiness!!


October 28 – November 5, 2014
Opua Bay Marina, New Zealand

We decided to anchor by the Opua marina instead of picking up a mooring.  After anchoring all over French Polynesia we felt very comfortable and had never experienced any problems. We were exhausted, so we went to sleep early. When we woke up we were sooooo cold. There were three blankets on our bed and we were wearing beanies, sweaters, pants and socks. Springtime in New Zealand! I know” hate” is a very strong word, but I can confidently tell you that Theo hates the cold. This man has crossed an ocean with all of its squalls and various other challenges. Now, he looks outside like he is about to walk into a hungry lion’s den. It is only cold weather… Oh brother!

Big, strong, courageous man becomes whiny baby boy in the cold
 After we had our coffee, we realized we were not in the same location as the night before. Theo said “Wasn’t that boat behind us and on the other side”? Oh S*#T! The wind had picked up while we slept and our anchor did not hold. We knew it was a muddy bottom and we put out a lot of chain, but the wind was very strong. We were extremely lucky to have not collided with another boat! We called the marina and asked for a mooring ball. They had one left that could hold a catamaran, so we took off immediately to pick it up. The problem was that the wind was over 20 knots and gusting. It was difficult to control Et Voila. We managed to find the mooring, but we lost our hook along with our patience… there was even a bit of cursing (okay, a lot of cursing and some finger gestures as well).  This was a scary and frustrating experience and is NOT to be repeated. We finally tied up to the mooring and went on shore to blow off some steam…

My first green juice in three months!
There is not much to do in Opua. We came here because we were told that quarantine is better equipped to handle the situation with Isabel, and that turned out to be the case.  Opua is also an ideal place to work on your boat. There are marine parts stores, sail makers, welders, mechanics, etc… Other than that, there is a yacht club were we could mingle with other cruisers, one cafe (which was actually delicious), a beauty salon and a convenience store… Yep, that’s it. So, we decided to rent a car and explore  the other towns close to Opua. Once Theo got somewhat comfortable driving on the left side of the road, we found a great farmer’s market.  There was live music, avocados, mushrooms, strawberries, green vegetables and we even had a green juice!!!  I love New Zealand…
      
We had been waiting for the paperwork and veterinarian appointment for Isabel. It took a week to prepare, but finally on November 3rd, the pet transport company got the okay to pick her up for her flight home. This was melancholy for Theo and I. We were comfortable and happy having Isabel with us, and to send her off on a flight across the world alone was nerve wracking. They took her away in a van for the four hour drive to Auckland (in the rain) and then she took the long flight to Los Angeles. We were so relieved when we got the phone call from our son Jonathan saying that she was safely home. Now it was time to move Et Voila to Marsden Cove Marina where she will stay for a few months while we go home for the holidays.

November 5 – 9, 2014
Marsden Cove Marina, New Zealand

The sail to Marsden Cove was uneventful. Calm until the end, as usual. We are now docked in our slip and have spent the days getting our boat cleaned and ready to stay put for a while. It is a strange feeling for us. Theo and I have completed our first season of sailing! We have our passports and backpacks ready for our flight home to Los Angeles. I will be having my one year follow up with my oncologist. I feel great and know he will have good news for me. Theo will return to New Zealand in January to begin working on  the long list of repairs needed for Et Voila. I will join him in February and we will explore New Zealand by land for a few months before we sail the Bay of Islands. Until then, Happy Holidays to everyone. We hope you have enjoyed reading our blog so far. Wishing you good health and happiness every day!

 







REFLECTIONS ON BREAST CANCER – October 2014

Just before Thanksgiving will be one year since I completed treatment for breast cancer. Four months of chemotherapy, surgery and 6 weeks of radiation. When I was first diagnosed, my doctor told me that I would never fully forget that I had cancer, but someday it would be in the back of my mind…not the main focus of my every waking moment. I was skeptical. I am not in that place yet, but I understand what he meant.

Like many diseases, cancer can feel very isolating, so it was so wonderful to see the global awareness of breast cancer in the month of October. In Tonga there were pink ribbons and clothing.  Back home in Orange County, our children Jonathan and Stephanie and their friends Kathryn and Kevin walked for breast cancer awareness… thank you! Here in New Zealand, there was the Paddle for Hope in Auckland. Over one hundred paddle boarders in pink… I love it! As a breast cancer survivor I would like to say “keep going”… It is very, very helpful. Feeling the love and support makes us happy, and happiness is healing…

Before Theo and I left Catalina Island for the Marquesas, I had my appointment with Dr. V (oncologist). He is a stoic man that hardly ever smiles (unless you mention medical insurance), but his no nonsense disposition makes me feel safe. He puts his hands on my shoulders, looks me in the eyes and tells me I am doing well. The last time I saw him in April we did the usual blood work… etc. I told him we were about to sail our catamaran to Tahiti. He pulled up a chair and sat very close to me and asked for details of the trip. When I was done he smiled and said, “Enjoy, I can’t wait to hear about it”.  Dr. V saved my life, one of many, and I remind him of that every time I see him… It is because of him that I was able to sail to New Zealand and appreciate every moment along the way.

At the time of diagnosis and treatment, cancer dominates your every move and moment. This dissipates with time.  I will never feel it was a "gift" as some survivors say. If it was a gift , I want a gift receipt so I can return it ASAP! That being said, cancer is not always the end of the world... It could actually be the beginning of a new one. 

I now see breast cancer as an invitation to reevaluate my life. It has made everything crystal clear. I know who I love, I know who my friends are, and I know what I want and what I don't want. Easy...


LESSONS:

-New Zealand has extreme weather. You can experience the four seasons in one day here. Layer your clothing!

-Do not anchor in a muddy bay with strong winds, get a mooring instead.

-Declare your bear repellent so they will give it back to you before you leave the country.

QUOTES:

-“We all have that voice that tells us we are too old or too busy to try something new. Now, for me, I have a new voice that says, “Why not? Give it a go”. I feel more adventurous, not as cautious”.         Breast Cancer Survivor

-“This is my Journey and I am letting it happen. Whatever will be, will be. I just need to go through this test. Now I only make short term plans. Live for the moment, you don’t know what is around the corner.” –Breast Cancer Survivor

Monday, September 29, 2014

Maupihaa, Niue and Tonga

AUGUST 28, 2014

LEAVE BORA BORA FOR MAUPIHAA, FRENCH POLYNESIA


We officially checked out of French Polynesia yesterday because Bora is the last place we could do this. It is almost exactly four months since we arrived in the harbor of Hiva Oa in the Marquesas, however we have one more island to visit before we exit French Polynesia for good. We will sail twenty hours to a place that I will describe as a sandbar with palm trees…it is called Maupihaa. Theo and I debated whether or not to visit there at all because the pass to enter is very narrow (and our catamaran is very wide) with a strong current. In the end we decided it was worth a try…Et Voila!
Our overnight sail was lumpy and loud with two squalls…not bad. We took one reef on the mainsail and that got us through just fine. Around 8 o’clock in the morning we were four miles outside the pass. It was a grey morning, but we had been told that the pass was “beautiful and flat”. Thank goodness because we could not wait to anchor.

The crazy, narrow passage into Maupihaa

Beautiful and flat??  I do not want to know what this pass is like when it is rough and stormy (dark and stormy?). It was frightening and Theo was white knuckling it the whole way through. Our catamaran is about 26 feet in width and this pass did not leave room for ANY error. Thankfully, one of the other boats anchored inside the lagoon offered to guide us in with their dinghy. Once we finally entered, there were no markers. There were the usual uncharted reefs and Bommies with 20 knot winds. Once we navigated the Bommies and anchored we were very happy to see six boats that we knew from other locations during our travels. We were greeted by them and made arrangements to have a bonfire on the beach around 4 o’clock that evening. We talked for hours at the bonfire. Some of the boats had been in Maupihaa for three weeks! Wow… they told us the family (yes, one of the two or three) that lives here is very welcoming and fun to spend time with. Later that evening, Theo and I talked about how important the people you meet are to this whole cruising adventure. It is important to interact with the people who live here and the people on the other boats that are sharing the experience with you. Bora was pretty, but not too friendly (except for the Matira Beach Restaurant). Apparently, other boats had fishing poles and other valuables stolen in Bora as well. It ruins the place when this happens. We are so happy we came to Maupihaa before leaving French Polynesia for good.


AUGUST 29 – SEPTEMBER 9, 2014

MAUPIHAA

We are anchored at the Southern end of the island because it is more protected from the wind here. It is raining and... COLD! I have not been cold for four months and I welcome it. Theo had made coffee, so I ran down to our stateroom and grabbed a cashmere scarf that was a gift from Christina and a grey beanie that was a good luck gift from Rosie. I cuddled up with Isabel and drank my coffee while it rained around me and I was so happy.  As I was sitting around doing nothing, Theo was working on a project. He is constructing a new fishing reel using materials he found on the beach last night. An Australian couple at the bonfire gave him the idea. They had heard that our reels and poles were stolen, so they showed us a man-made reel that was on their boat when they purchased it. Theo’s wheels began turning immediately!  He took a plank of wood from a beaten up boat that he found on the beach,  an old broomstick and some pipes as well… he is obviously not one to give up! Once he completed the reel, we wound some line onto it and attached a lure. We jumped in the dinghy and rode back and forth along the reefs hoping there would be at least one fish to catch for lunch. We caught a small grouper! I am so proud of my husband, but I have to wonder how he will feel when we return home for the Holidays. He hardly wears a shirt or proper shoes anymore. He now climbs trees, husks coconuts, and the other night while we were eating a chicken dinner, he was hurling the bones from the cockpit dining table into the water. As I am writing this he is urinating off the port side of the boat. I am hoping he will snap out of it when we get back to Orange County.

My happy island boy!

When the winds calmed down we moved further north to an anchorage that was close to the family’s home. We were excited to meet them. Theo and I loaded supplies that they might need into a bag and went onshore. We brought pasta, crepes with Nutella, fishing lures, a new journal to use as a guest book and dog food for their five dogs. Once onshore we were greeted by the son, Hio, and his oldest sister named Faimano. They were all smiles and welcomed us like we were old friends. They introduced us to their mother, Adrienne, and their two other sisters, Puaiti and Karina. We were invited to dinner for that evening and when I asked what I could prepare for them, the girls giggled and said PASTA!  I could do that….this was going to be fun!


Dinner was a fantastic time. Most of the boats from the anchorage were there and everyone brought a different dish to share. Unfortunately, Marcello, Adrienne’s husband was not there. He had not been feeling well, so one of the boats that was visiting the island offered to take him to Maupiti where there is a hospital.  He will stay there for a while. Once in Maupiti, the boat decided ( since they were out anyway) to continue back to Bora for more supplies (Beer). Now that's a beer run… an overnight sail!  It was wonderful getting to know Hio and his sisters. One night, during a dinner at their home, they were telling stories and Hio held up his hand to show us his index finger which was wrapped in a bandage. One of the other cruisers went on to explain what had happened to him. Somehow Hio got a hold of an air gun and tried to make the barrel bore larger to fit 22 caliber bullets. When he fired it, it exploded and made a hole in his index finger. He could have lost his eyes and hands altogether, or worse. Everyone scolded him and told him to NEVER try that again. Hio just gave everyone his big smile and pretended to be blind and catching lobsters with his feet…. his spirit is amazing, but that was a frightening story. He is a very lucky young man.

Dinner with Hio and his family
The next day, Hio called Theo on the radio and asked him to come to shore. When he arrived, Hio gave him a Coconut Crab and two lobsters (he was not supposed to hunt with his injured finger).  When he got back to Et Voila, Theo radioed the anchorage to meet on the beach for a lobster and crab barbecue with Hio's family.  This is what cruising is all about. The people you meet make it so fun. I made more pasta and everyone else contributed their favorite dish as well. One of our friends made a huge jug of something very strong to drink. I did not taste it, but Theo said it was almost too potent to swallow. I asked his wife what it was and she told me that it was pure grain alcohol, but her husband did not dilute it enough tonight! She said, “He is a chemist, we do it all the time”. Theo kept dousing the bonfire with his drink so it would light up like a volcano… simple pleasures.

Sara, Faimano, Puaiti and Adrienne

Hio, Theo, Gustof (the chemist) and Isabel at the bonfire

Hio and his Coconut Crab

I spent a lot of that evening talking to Faimano and her sisters. I asked how she learned English so well and she told me that she taught herself using a dictionary. She spoke beautifully. While we were talking, Theo walked by and the girls started giggling. They told me that during the first few days of meeting us they could not remember Theo’s name, so they nicknamed him Triple X (XXX?). Anyway, they explained that this was a movie they really liked and he looked like the main character. I don’t know this movie, but I am guessing that the main actor is bald… I’ll google it when I get a chance.  I asked Adrienne if she was going to go to Maupiti to visit her husband in the hospital, but she just scrunched up her face like there was a bad smell in the air. She said “Maupiti….NO! Here”, and she pointed to the sand on the beach. This is her island and she is very content. I asked them about Maupiti and Bora Bora. They said that the people are not warm to them when they visit, so they do not like it there. I understood very well.

Hio is also very content and proud of his island as well. Theo and I were wondering why people leave Maupihaa at all. This IS paradise. When we asked Hio, he said that most boats leave because they run out of supplies and want to go get more. He also explained that everything you need to survive on the island is on the island. You would need nothing from the outside…and he means NOTHING. Not even clothes are a necessity for him. They live with solar panels for energy, no generator. They do not have refrigeration or a freezer. He has a VHF and an SSB radio (which had an ants nest inside).   Hio is so great. He can climb a 7.5 meter coconut tree in 3 seconds…we saw him do it! He has been climbing since he was 6 years old. He walks around with a machete and cracks coconuts and cuts trees to get fresh hearts of palm. He even took Theo and some other men spear fishing. They caught 15 fish while they battled the frenzied sharks that were circling them. He explained to Theo that once you spear the fish, make sure to hold it high up out of the water, then slap the top of the water really hard with your other hand to scare off the sharks. Hmmm. Theo was swatting them like flies with his spear gun. In the end they had to get back on the dinghy quickly because the sharks were jumping out of the water to get the fish on the spear.   I am very relieved I was not there to see it.

Three seconds!

Theo and I love to walk with Isabel along the beach. She walks in the water so she can pounce at the various fish that she finds. She is incredibly serious and focused about her hunting and can do it all day! Once, she saw a shark and tried to attack it. Thank goodness the shark swam away. Isabel has no idea what she is dealing with. One morning we noticed that there were tracks from the ocean, up the sand and into the bush. We followed them and saw a turtle nest… sea turtles were nesting!  We decided to come back that evening after dinner and see if we could spot one. We knew it was a long shot, but well worth a try. We went with two other couples around 9 o’clock pm. About 10 minutes down the beach, just as we turned a corner, we were shocked to see a giant green sea turtle just emerging from the water! I will never forget the feeling I had when I saw her. I could not believe it was really happening before our eyes. I was so, so grateful. We watched in silence as she heaved her body up the sand. She was about 400 pounds, so this was a very difficult thing for her to do. She would go forward a few times and then stop and rest. Just hearing her breathing was enough for me.  It was about half an hour before she reached the bushes, then she proceeded to go pretty far in. Once she started digging the sand where she wanted to lay her eggs, we all settled down on our bellies to watch. She was about five feet away from us. She worked for another half hour, but she hit some roots in the ground and decided to find another spot to lay her eggs. She was working tirelessly. After a few hours, we reluctantly decided to leave and let her finish in peace. I do not have any photographs, because the flash on my camera would have spooked her. I will never forget this experience…ever! The next morning, we jumped in the dinghy to go find where she finally laid her eggs. She had dug two holes before she dug a third to finally make her nest. She must have been working until the early hours of the morning before she finished and returned  back into the ocean. Incredible.

Turtle tracks emerging from the ocean and up the beach

Our turtle's final nest as seen the next morning

 Later that day we went snorkeling  with most of the other cruisers in the anchorage. There are remains of a wreck just outside the pass. The SMS Seeadler was a 83.5 meter WWI sailing ship that  crashed onto the reef on August 2 ,1917. We got into our dinghies, dropped our anchors and dove in. It was truly spectacular. I was swimming back to the dinghy when I heard what sounded like a child crying. There were two young girls in our group so I thought something might have happened to one of them. I popped my head up to look, but they were swimming around without a care in the world. I kept swimming and continued to hear the sound. I got out of the water and asked someone if they had heard it. They said, “Yes, it is a whale”.  A few minutes later I saw one of the women pointing. I turned and saw a Humpback Whale breach out of the water. He jumped three times before diving down again. This place is magic.

Snorkeling at the Seeadler wreck

More remains of the Seeadler

We decided that Maupihaa is where we wanted to spread Mambo’s ashes. There could not be a more special place than this, so we walked the beach until we found a spot that he would have loved and said goodbye again. We miss him and we will miss this Island. It is so peaceful here and I don’t know if we will ever visit again. I made one more bowl of pasta for the girls and we gave Hio some of our steaks from the freezer. We said our goodbyes, signed the guest book and left paradise.

LESSONS:
-Sharks are scavengers…once something is wounded, you can count on them to show up… just slap the water with your hand to scare them off.
-Theo can build or fix just about anything.
-A whale’s song sounds like a child softly sobbing.
-Don’t stand or sit under a coconut tree. I have mentioned this before, but it should be repeated. One night at dinner on the beach I sat down. Faimano looked at me and then looked up high in the air. I followed her gaze... I was sitting under a coco tree full of ripe nuts.  Fact: Every year about 150 people  worldwide are killed by a falling coconut.
-Do not play with guns.
-Nothing is perfect. There are nonos in Maupihaa…little s#!*heads.

QUOTES: “Every human being’s essential nature is perfect and faultless, but after years of immersion in the world we easily forget our roots and take on a counterfeit nature” – Lao-tzu

“The nice thing about rain is that it always stops…eventually” – Eeyore


SEPTEMBER 9 – 16, 2014

Passage from Maupihaa to Niue

We reluctantly left Maupihaa , but we feel very fortunate to have been able to spend so much time there. We have shared so many precious and unique experiences with other sailors, and in the process we have nurtured new friendships. We are now sailing 915 nautical miles to Niue. We left together with another boat and are trying to stay close, communicate by radio and keep a watch on each other. So far, the wind is steady and we are sailing at 6+ knots. If the weather stays like this, we will arrive in Niue in one week. I had an overwhelming feeling of relief when we exited the passage in Maupihaa and raised our sails. I wasn’t sure what brought this on, but after thinking about it for a while I understand why. We have had so much stress dodging dangerous reefs in strong currents, watching out for Bommies and just trying not to hit anything in general. There have been quite a few vessels that ended up on reefs here just recently. Now that we are on the open ocean again, there is not much to be concerned about… it is not likely we will hit anything for at least one more week! This is a good feeling.

Long passages are boring. We read, talk, fish, cook, eat, sleep, adjust sails, play with Isabel, and every once in a while we will clean something. We alternate 3 hour watches, which means we don’t even sleep at the same time while we are underway. I asked Theo the other day if he is bored of my company. He paused (a bit too long in my opinion), but I am sure he realized this was a dangerous question to answer and he wanted to say the right thing… if possible. He finally said “No… I am not bored. It’s just that we are together all the time, so we see and experience the same things. There isn't much to report to each other at the end of the day”. This is true, but I do know one thing that we both agree on. This would not be enjoyable if we didn't have each other to share it with. That is what it’s all about… to be with someone you love and not know what each day will bring, but go through the adventure  together.

Isabel keeps Theo company while he rests after his night watch

We put Theo’s handmade fishing reel in the water… It is now known as the “Magic Reel”. He attaches it to a bungee cord and then places the reel on a stern step. When the reel falls one step down, we know that we got a bite. We caught a Wahoo and we were so excited… In the past we have caught Tuna, Mahi and Bonito, but never a Wahoo! Later on we hooked another Mahi Mahi.  We are so happy to be able to fish again!

The "magic reel" and a Wahoo

The "magic reel" and a Mahi Mahi

During the last few days of sailing the wind just stopped, so we decided to motor until it picked up again. This has been such an unusual passage for us. There has been no rain or squalls during the night and that is a first. There was only one day that was a bit lumpy and uncomfortable, but that is all. This has been our best sailing experience so far.  We will arrive in Niue early in the morning on September 16th. It will be our 25th wedding anniversary!


SEPTEMBER 16 – 22, 2014

NIUE


Niue is affectionately referred to as “The Rock” and is one of the largest coral islands in the world.  It has steep limestone cliffs along its coast, few beaches and no harbor. On land the coral has produced many stunning caves, caverns and arches. The surrounding ocean is crystal clear, with visibility up to 230 feet. Niue is an independent nation in free association with New Zealand, so the inhabitants have dual citizenship. The languages spoken here are English (YAY!!) and Niuean. The currency is the New Zealand dollar, but there is no ATM in sight. Niue’s economy suffers from geographic isolation, very few resources and a small population. To make matters worse, in 2004, cyclone Heta hit Niue with 30 meter waves and winds that caused massive destruction. Since then, many of the inhabitants have moved to New Zealand in search for a better life. The population used to be around 2,500 and is now somewhere in the 850 range. The people here are extremely kind and always smiling and waving. There is no crime as far as we could tell. Cars are left with keys in the ignition and no one seems to lock their homes. There is a jail here, but there is nobody in it and the police station closes at 5 o’clock during the week and all day on Sunday.


We moored our boat early in the morning and went to shore to check in. We were greeted by a tall concrete wharf with a large, rusted hook to attach to our dinghy and haul it up. We had never seen anything like this before and were concerned, because our dinghy is around 400 pounds!  We managed to raise it to the dock, and using what looks like a huge spatula, scrape it up and drag it into a dinghy parking spot.  We had been told to wait at the wharf and customs would meet us there. They finally arrived and we all sat at a picnic table overlooking our boats and filled out the paperwork to officially check us into Niue. This was such a relaxing experience and the customs officers were so friendly, so I casually asked about bringing Isabel on shore.  The officer said “ If we see her on shore we will have no choice but to euthanize her.” Okay, this was no longer a nice man. Just try to take my dog from me… you will have to put us both down! I want to fly her home. This is getting crazy…
After customs we checked into the Niue Yacht Club which is a room with a few tables and a well stocked  library. They had Wi Fi (it was so slow…like watching paint dry) and cold drinks. Theo and I are now NYC members and have a card to prove it! It was our anniversary, but we were so tired that we just went back to the boat and took a nap. We woke up around dinner time, made popcorn, ate it, then went back to sleep. We were just happy to be in Niue after one week on the ocean.

Our very casual customs check in

Theo scooping up our dinghy with the "spatula"

Jack, Theo and Phil getting dancing lessons after a dinner buffet

Our cruising friends on Et Voila. Our get togethers are nicknamed "Whiskey and Weather" (A lot of whiskey and a little bit of discussion about upcoming weather conditions)

We rented a car for the next few days with our new friends Phil and Sara from the sailing vessel Lochmarin. We let Phil drive since he is from England and accustomed to driving on the “wrong” side of the road. Together we hiked, explored caves, swam in translucent pools of water and lunched at various places around the island. Having a car here for three days is ideal because there are so many stunning caves to explore and pools to swim in. When we hiked to Togo Chasm, it was like being on another planet. Coral spikes coming out of the earth like a dense forest. Eerie and unique…we had never seen anything like it before. Niue now has one flight coming in from New Zealand a week. Thankfully, this brings tourism to this gorgeous and friendly atoll. It is a lovely spot and a must see if you are cruising.

The spectacular pools of Niue

A tiny rock pool in the center of a coral platform during low tide

The Limu pools

An immense cave 

The alien landscape of the Togo Chasm

The only way in and out!

Happiness!

We left Niue on Monday September 22nd. There is a big swell coming in and the mooring has become a bit uncomfortable to stay… not to mention that boarding our dinghy at the dock was becoming dangerous! We are traveling for two days to Tonga. We have sailing vessels Lochmarin and Chara close by. We have crossed the international dateline, so in a matter of seconds we were one day ahead. Theo continues to catch fish with the magic reel and we are very excited about our next destination…Tonga.

QUOTES: “Do not anticipate trouble or worry about what may never happen… keep in the sunlight.” – Benjamin Franklin

THE NIUEAN LANGUAGE:

Most Niueans speak English, but it is always nice to know a few phrases if you encounter the older generation…Also,  it is great fun to sit with friends after a cocktail and practice saying these phrases out loud.

-Fakaalofa Atu! – Hello!
-Fakaalofa Lahi Atu  -  Great greetings to you
-Fakamolemole – Please
-Fakaue Lahi – Thank you
-Fakamolemole La – I’m sorry
-Kia Fakamonuina ma I he Atua a tautolu oti Tukulagi! – May the Lord’s blessings be upon us all everlasting!
-Fakaholo Fakasekiseki  h  e  po neke mapela  e tau uga! – Be careful of Coconut Crabs (Ugas) when driving at night!


SEPTEMBER 25 - OCTOBER 14, 2014

TONGA

I was doing my watch while Theo got some much needed sleep. It was 5 o’clock in the morning and pitch dark outside, but I knew we were rapidly approaching the island on our Port side. I stared at the radar and could see the huge red blob that was Tonga. I went outside, but only saw blackness. This is a feeling that I do not care for… knowing there is land close by and not being able to see it freaks me out. I made coffee and went up to the flying bridge for a glimpse of anything at all. I could not wait to see just a pinch of daylight so I could orient myself and relax. Finally there it was, just as the radar had indicated, but I was happy to see it with my own eyes. I suppose I still don’t have much faith in electronics.

Tonga is the only island in the Pacific that was never colonized. It is a Polynesian country of over 150 islands, but only 36 are inhabited. The language is Tongan and English. Currency is the Pa’anga (of which we have zero). With its numerous anchorages, clear water and Humpback Whales… this is cruising paradise.

As I write this we are waiting for customs officers to clear us into the country. So far two have come on board… two more to go. This is a very strange experience for us. It is customary  to offer them refreshments and snacks, so I have hot tea, juice and cookies on the dining table. So far they have helped themselves, but Theo and I noticed that they just hang around and sit quietly, even after we have finished the paperwork! We played this waiting game (If I wasn’t so tired, I would have giggled) because we didn’t know what else to do. They didn’t talk, so we didn’t talk. Did they have a late night? Are they resting on our boat before continuing  back to work? Finally, one of the officers said “So, Wanda, do you have any fish for me”? Oh really… he wanted a bribe! Okay, that is fine with me, but seriously, I cannot read minds…especially a Tongan mind. I just arrived after all! Thank goodness he came out and said what he wanted or he would have hung around all day. I gave him what was left of our frozen Wahoo and he was gone. Two more officers are coming on board. There goes our Mahi Mahi. What a weird experience… welcome to Tonga!

The highlight of our sailing adventure so far has taken place here in Tonga. We were fortunate enough to snorkel with Humpback Whales. This was one of the most incredible moments of my life. Once we dove in, I looked up and saw a male, female and her calf. They were just floating there and I was completely mesmerized. They did not stay long because the role of the male escort is to keep the female and calf safe and moving along… he is like a bodyguard and will put himself in front of anything that is a potential problem. Then we watched from the boat as one lone whale breached and frolicked about. It was like he was doing a happy dance! At one point, he was floating on the surface on his back and rocking side to side with his enormous flippers slapping the water! We did not swim with him because he was a bit too playful. Next was a magical encounter with a mother and 2-3 week old calf. Her head was underneath the baby and gently nudging it to the surface for air. At one point, the mother went down deeper with the baby, and as we watched on, the calf just floated to the surface right in front of us. We felt so, so grateful to be with them and share such a special moment. It was the best day ever.

The playful lone whale

Humpback yoga?

The male escort and female diving deep

Male, female and calf

The mother with her 2 - 3 week old baby

We were so fortunate to see these breathtaking moments

Saying goodbye

The best day EVER!!!
 


I woke up to the church choir singing and chickens crowing. I never know what I will hear in the morning. Sometimes it is dogs, goats, birds or even crickets. We went to shore and the town was bustling with energy. It was market day and the produce was a welcome sight. Theo and I have been enjoying the wi-fi access here and the many shops and restaurants. Neiafu is very cruiser friendly and even has a net in the morning informing us of all that is happening during the week. There were Tongan feasts, sailboat races, visits to local schools, cricket matches, a pub crawl and even a girl’s night out! We had been enjoying it all, but after a while we decided to chill out and visit some of the other many anchorages in the Vava'u Island group.
Entering the morning outdoor market

Fresh produce...Yay!

The children are always ready to smile for a photo

Girl's Night Out

Entering a school

They performed for us...look at their costumes!


Dancing after the performance...the parents prepared an amazing buffet lunch for us.
 
Such enthusiasm...I want some of their energy!
 
We anchored in a cove called the Blue Lagoon. The water is of so many various depths that it is every shade of blue and light green that you can imagine. Many boats do not stop here for the evening because it is not well protected and a bit “rolly”. We stayed anyway because we were completely alone and our location was spectacular! The next morning, I walked into the galley to make coffee and realized that our boat was unusually still… much too stable in fact. I glanced at the water outside and saw that there was not much of it. I grabbed the portable depth gage and it read 3 feet. We were beached! I woke Theo up and he was so excited… beaching the boat is an advantage of having a catamaran, we just had never done it before ( Okay, we did it by accident, but we were so happy)! Theo walked all around and under the boat to scrub the hulls…he even changed the zincs. After lunch the tide came back in and we sailed away. What a fun experience!

Et Voila sailing...a great photo taken by Chara

The Blue Lagoon

Theo scrubbing the hulls in 3 feet of water

The boat was balanced on the keels... the rudders and saildrives were not touching
We visited a few other anchorages and they are all beautiful and relaxing. Our favorite was anchorage #11 which is Tapana Island. There is not much there… a small floating houseboat called the Ark Gallery and two restaurants. La Paella is a Spanish Tapas restaurant and it was highly recommended to us, so we made reservations to go with our friends Bob and Joyce from the sailboat Chara. The four of us walked up a trail and eventually saw what looked like a house with tables set on an open patio. As we approached,  we were welcomed by a very sweet dog and a friendly goat. The atmosphere, food and company were unbeatable!  As we watched the sunset from our table, giant fruit bats flew by our table and landed heavily in the trees surrounding the restaurant. We enjoyed a fixed menu of never ending tapas as the dog slept soundly by Bob’s feet. We were about to pay and roll ourselves down the dark trail when the owner told us there was going to be musical entertainment in a few moments. A group of men that had been smoking and talking in the corner (including the cook) took their places in front of our table. There was a vocalist with his guitar and the other two men were the keyboardist and percussionist. They began playing and were really good!

What happened next was surreal and I will do my best to explain, but it is one of those times that you just have to be there.  As soon as the music started, the dog woke up and started dancing around… he was scooting and twisting on his back with his tongue hanging out! Just when we thought it couldn’t get any weirder, the goat walked into the restaurant and stood staring at the musicians and the dog. Joyce and Bob got up to slow dance to Hey Jude, but the goat started repeatedly butting Bob in the leg with his head. This went on for a while… unfortunately, the goat began eating the dried palm leaves that made up the walls of the restaurant, so he was chased outside by the cook. It was an unforgettable time for all of us. If you find yourself on Tapana Island in Tonga, this is not to be missed!

A bit blurry, but here are the musicians, the dancing dog and the black and white goat on the left.
 
We also sailed to an anchorage called Port Mourelle on Kapa Island. This was a calm anchorage with great water. We drove the dinghy to Swallow’s Cave and snorkeled inside. It was the perfect all around place… until it wasn’t. I was preparing dinner on the boat and got overheated by the stove. I decided to jump in the water to cool off, but eventually I began feeling electric shocks all over my body. I swam back quickly and climbed out. I looked at Theo and told him what happened. My loving husband said, “Oh yeah, there are jellyfish… but they are really small”. I was not happy… I was the opposite of happy. I am tired of being stung by things!!! Now I have itchy, red, swollen welts all over me. ENOUGH!!!! (Yes, I am complaining).

Approaching Swallow's Cave

Snorkeling inside the cave

Sea Snake

Theo wearing his traditional Tongan "skirt"...Orange County, here we come!
We are  back at the main port of Neiafu and we will be checking out of Tonga soon. As soon as we see a good weather window, we will sail from here to New Zealand. We have a slip reserved for Et Voila at Marsden Cove Marina. We have also made arrangements with a pet transport agency to help us get Isabel back to Los Angeles from New Zealand. We are taking it day by day and slowly everything is falling into place. All is as it should be!

 LESSONS:

-Look before you jump into the water.
 -Goats, pigs and dogs… they all have their own unique personalities. I can’t eat animals anymore.
 -Always wait for good weather… there is no rush.
 

QUOTES:

“Size matters not” – Yoda

“The first 40 years of childhood are always the hardest” - Anonymous

“It is better to travel well than to arrive” - Buddha